What do you offer for cats?
Do I need an appointment?
We generally are booked a year in advance. No new clients will be considered until they have filled out the Client Registration Form. On rare occasions we have a cancellation, so if it is convenient for your schedule, we can place you on a wait-list.
Can I take a tour of your facility before I decide to schedule a grooming
or spa appointment for my pet?
We encourage you to visit us and tour our beautiful grooming unit.
How long will the grooming process take?
A seasoned dog or cat that has been professionally groomed several times before will take a shorter time than a pet that has never visited the groomer. In addition, it will most likely take less time if your pet has received positive reports from another groomer.
If you are able to run a fine to medium coursed comb through entire coat, your pet has a well groomed coat. This will greatly reduce grooming times. By regularly combing your pet from the tip of the nose to end of the tail, including ears, feet and everything in between, you allow for more variety in length.
If you are punctual and your dog is in the above condition, 1 hours is a good estimate for a dog weighing less than or at 40lbs. For breeds that require more complex grooming such as, Standard Poodles or soft-coated Wheaton Terriers maintained as outlined above, you can expect 2-3 hours for completion.
How old does my puppy or kitten need to be in order to be groomed?
We work on puppies and kittens as young as 8 weeks old. Just provide paperwork from a licensed veterinarian from their first round of vaccinations and health verification and away we go!
What happens if my pet becomes nervous or afraid during the grooming
We always try our very best to keep your pets’ experience positive. In the rare event that your pet is fearful and cannot be soothed, we will stop the grooming process and contact you immediately for further instructions. We are not here to force or upset your pet. We are here to provide a good experience to your pet and show them there is no need to be afraid. We want to show them that grooming can be pleasurable experience!
I have NEVER known my pet to bite or not co-operate. Why would he do that?
We want your pet’s grooming to be a day of pampering and beautification at the spa. However, it can be a bit intense for some pets as we proceed faster than you do at home and it is obviously noisier. Thus some pets react out of fear or confusion and try to bite or completely loose focus. We are all entitled to have a bad day! We prefer to take our time, some times require additional personnel, and if necessary, will reschedule grooming in two sessions to help your pet become accustomed to grooming.
Do you use heated drying cages in your grooming facility?
We have specific policies against the use of heated drying cages at in our mobile grooming salon. Dana individually hand dries pets after they have been bathed. This process involves brushing out the coat to remove shedding hair then blowing it dry with equipment similar to, although larger than, your hair dryer on the cooler setting at home.
Do you tranquilize pets before you bathe or groom them?
Our highly trained and professional stylists are well versed in dealing with pets and we make the grooming process pleasurable, as well as comfortable. If your pet is nervous or new to grooming, we will spend extra time with them in order to help your pet feel safe and secure. We never tranquilize any animals at A Purrfect Groomer Mobile Pet Salon, so you can rest assured that your pet will experience the royal treatment without any chemicals or drugs.
How much will you charge to groom my dog or cat?
Grooming rates vary depending on size and the condition of your pet. Call, text or email us to discuss your pet’s needs with a team member and we will be happy to provide you with a personalized quote.
What causes stained fur around my dog’s mouth and paws?
Saliva contains enzymes that can stain the fur. When a dog with a light-colored coat licks one area excessively, a reddish brown stain develops. Several things can cause this licking behavior. Look for any obvious lesions, such as open sores on the feet. If you can’t find any, he/she may have allergies.
Dogs who suffer allergies to inhaled pollens, dusts, and molds often lick their feet and rub their face on the side of the couch and on the carpet. These dogs often have staining on their feet. Other less common conditions can also cause a dog to lick his feet. The staining around your dog’s mouth may be because he is salivating more than normal. Excess salivation can be a symptom of gum disease or some other problem inside the mouth. Ask your vet to examine your dog and discuss the different possible causes for discoloring on your pets’ coat.
Although several skin conditions can cause a dog to lick her feet, allergies are commonly at the root of this behavior. Airborne allergens cause atopic dermatitis (or atopy) in dogs. Basically this means that the pollens and molds that cause stuffy noses, sneezing, and respiratory problems in people make dogs itch. Atopic dermatitis is marked by excessive licking, biting, or scratching of the paws, face, armpits, and groin. Plant pollens, molds, dander, dust mites, and even cigarette smoke can cause a dog to itch. Some of these allergens are seasonal, but if your dog is allergic to lots of different plant pollens and molds that are present during different seasons, his/her allergies may span the entire year.
A veterinarian will have to determine if your dog suffers from atopy, a food allergy, or some other skin condition. If atopic allergies are the cause, possible treatments include antihistamines, steroids, and hypoallergenic injections (“allergy shots”).
What is a hot spot?
“Hot spots” are also known as “acute moist pyoderma”. What that means is that they are rapidly appearing, oozing, skin infections. This is just a description of a symptom, sort of like saying “your dog has scabs”. A hot spot starts because something irritates the dog’s skin. The body’s response is to either itch or create an inflammatory response at the site. In cases of itching, the dog then rubs licks or chews the site and adds to the problem. These sores can rapidly develop into a severe problem, often within an hour or two. The most common irritants are probably fleas and allergies. These cause the itching that leads to the skin infection.
There are many other possible sources of irritation… trace amount of shampoo left behind, tick bites, bee stings, burrs, mats, mosquitoes, summer heat and other problems all contribute to the initial irritation that can develop into a hot spot. The best treatment for these is prevention. Keep fleas off your dog! If necessary, groom and bathe your dog. If allergies are a problem for your dog, work with your vet to control itching. In some dogs, all of this won’t be enough and you still will occasionally see hot spots. The first step in treating a hot spot is to get it dry. Bacteria like the hot moist environment of irritated skin. Using something to dry the sore makes it harder for bacteria to grow. Clipping the hair over and around a hot spot can help a great deal in allowing it to dry. There are lots of astringents that will help dry the sore, as well. (By prescription; NeoPredef powder because it dries the sore, has an antibiotic that acts locally and a corticosteroid to control the itching and inflammation. Butadiene solution is a good antiseptic.) Plain and inexpensive, diluted tea tree oil also will do the trick.
The most important step in treatment of hot spots is to immediately stop the pet from licking and chewing the spot. In severe cases, we suggest the use of an Elizabethan (the cone) collar to prevent mutilation and give the spot a chance to heal. If the hot spot doesn’t respond very quickly to efforts to keep it dry, then you should seek help from your veterinarian. Some dogs will continue to dig and scratch until they severely damage their skin. Your veterinarian can help make your dog comfortable quickly in most cases.
Is there any way to control shedding?
While pets shed all year, this becomes a particular issue when the seasons or temperature changes. These changes cause the body to “drop” or shed their coats. Frequent brushing keeps the can help minimize this problem. To further minimize the effects of shedding, we suggest an extra grooming appointment during these times. A Purrfect Groomer Mobile Pet Salon can give your dog a massaging bath with our hydro bathing system, which incorporates water, air and shampoo. The system foams dirt to the surface; massaging the body and stimulating the skin, promoting blood flow (Ideal for post orthopedic patients and arthritic seniors). We use blow dryers that remove more hair more effectively than brushing alone. Our dryers are special no-heat air force driers that push water right off the hair. This parts the hair and allows our professionals to spot
fleas, ticks, lumps, bumps, or abnormalities.
Regular visits to our spa can also ensure that the hair shedding off your dog stays in the salon, not in your car or house! We suggest regular grooming for dogs on a 4-6 week schedule, which reduces shedding and other skin and coat problems.
Just shave him, he’s hot
It is extremely important for breeds with guard hairs (i.e. Siberian Huskies and German Shepherds) to keep their coat to protect them from the harmful sun or cold wind. Please keep in mind that once you shave a dog or cat that their coat may never grow back the same or at all!
Please help your pet stay cool by keeping him:
- Lean or at an ideal weight
- Brushed of all undercoat
Remember that the undercoat is like the down feathers of a bird, it’s what keeps them warm and cool. It’s also the first part of the coat that sheds when it’s hot out. Because dogs have no sweat glands they must cool down the body by panting. So if your dog is not overweight and is panting on a warm day, he is just cooling himself down. To put things in perspective, you never see people in the Sahara desert in shorts or a bikini. They dress in layers of clothing to protect their skin.
It’s just easier for me
Because dogs have 7-25 hairs per follicle (we have 1 hair per follicle) their hair is always growing and shedding at different rates during different seasons. A true “backyard” dog will only shed twice per year as opposed to an “indoor” dog that sheds all year long. This is due to the constant temperature manipulation indoors. You aren’t doing your pet any favors by shaving their coat; instead you are damaging it and creating a far bigger problem by shaving them. Simply help your pet with the shedding process by combing and brushing them until all the loose hair is gone.
How can I keep my dog looking great between spa visits?
We understand just how busy you are and can appreciate how daunting it can be to comb out your dog on a daily basis. So, let’s be realistic. What we have done to keep our dogs looking good between spa visits in the past has worked great, so I want to pass it along to you. Our clients have found it most helpful and effective by setting up a box on an end table in the family room and put a dog brush and comb inside and maybe some treats! When you have a spare moment to sit down (finally!) at night to watch a little television, just put the dog on the ottoman in front of you and do a quick little comb out. Don’t make it a big deal—five minutes or so per dog. It makes all the difference and you can consider it bonding time.
The groomer said my pet had matted/pelted fur and had to be shaved down. Why can’t they just brush him out?
Matted fur means that your pet doesn’t just have tangles but that his fur has woven itself into. A pelt is severe matting all the way to the skin. Most common ways for making knots worse are to wash them, and wash them some more. Without ever completely drying the coat and not thoroughly combing out will lead to the equivalent of a wool sweater shrinking in the drier- well so will the tangles on your dog or cat. To de-tangle it would leave your pet’s skin bloody, his nerves wrecked, and your bank account drained! The only humane thing to do is to shave it all off and start over. Your pet will not feel the clipper cutting through the mats as he would a comb tugging at the fur. We can’t undo months of tangling in just one grooming visit. Humanity over vanity is our motto.
Well if he’s matted, why can’t they just cut a little off and still leave him some fluffiness? Why do they have to shave him so close?
Professional grade hair clippers use different length attachments. However, matted fur and thick coats ( such as you might find on cockers spaniels and shih-tzus) can pose a unique problem. Any attachment designed to leave lengths of fur between a 1/2 inch to 2 inches of fur will simply not be able to cut through matted or thick coated fur. The only way to get the clippers to move through the coat, is to get the fur into pristine condition by detangling and separating the hairs so that it will feed into the clipper attachment. But as we covered earlier, detangling coats in that condition is simply not humane or affordable.
What is razor rash?
Razor rash is the term used for the red, irritated, itchy skin that appears after your pet has been clipped. It is usually limited to a certain area, commonly the belly, anus, or face. This rash appears because your pet has sensitive skin and the clippers may irritate the skin in those areas. It doesn’t happen to all pets, and can happen to a pet that has always been clipped with no previous problems. Let us know if it happens to your pet, and we will mark his file to prevent it from happening again.
It is important to note that razor rash is sometimes referred to as “clipper burn”. This term is incorrect, as it leads one to believe that a temperature related burn has occurred. We use the top of the line clippers and attachments, and keep them lubricated, which means they always run cool. In addition, we have many years of experience grooming pets which means that we are quick and thorough.
What is anal gland expression?
“Scooting” may be caused by your dogs’ anal glands being too full. It does not necessarily mean they are impacted or abscessed, and there is nothing ‘poisonous’ in them.
What are anal glands? They are very much like the scent glands that skunks have. Nature designed them to fill up with a disgusting-smelling fluid, and to be emptied each time a dog has a bowel movement. This helps dogs mark their territories. Dogs can also forcibly evacuate them when startled by a predator, in order to scare them away. (Again, similar to skunks.) Groomers will feel for the gland EXTERNALLY and gently squeeze to release its contents. Although the anal-gland ‘smell’ is one which is quite familiar to anyone who has worked with dogs, each dog has its own individual scent, whether we can pick up on it or not. The problem is…. That is how nature *intended* it to work for dogs who roamed the wild. Nature did not intend for Poodles, Yorkshire Terriers, Miniature Schnauzers and Chihuahuas to roam the wild. Humans created all the different breeds, and in selecting the traits for all of them, no one paid any attention to where the anal sacs were located. As a result, in many dogs (especially the smaller breeds), they are not always located in ‘exactly’ the right place or have the muscle development to allow the dogs to naturally express their anal glands. They can’t empty their anal glands out by having a bowel movement, but the sacs continue to fill up with the disgusting (bacteria-filled) fluid. It’s not painful (unless a blockage in the duct occurs, leading to an abscess), but it is uncomfortable to have full anal sacs. So…… The dog has only two other options to try to empty them out. One is by ‘scooting’ their butt across the floor. The other is by licking. This is actually the most common cause for coughing/gagging/hacking up sputum that looks like egg whites in dogs who are not sick. This is because the nasty fluid trickles down the throat, causing chronic tracheids and tonsillitis. This is also a common contributor to bad breath.
Since neither of those solutions is very effective, it may be necessary for us to help these dogs by emptying their anal glands periodically. Some dogs need to have it done every couple of weeks, some every month, some every 6-8 weeks. Each dog is different. Larger breeds seem to have fewer problems, but this can happen to them, too. Cats usually take care of theirs quite well by licking, but sometimes we have to help them out as well.
* Anal itching can also be a sign that your dog has developed an allergy to one of the ingredients in its food.
But I just had my dog to the groomer and his vet said his anal sacs were still full.
Anal glands expressions are included with basic baths & purrfect bath but only done upon request. Groomers, as mentioned above, manipulate the gland externally. This means that we must feel for it through thick fur, skin and fat, which can be difficult. In addition, we must pull the tail up slightly in order to push the gland forward. As you can imagine, this is intrusive to most pets and something for which they may not cooperate. Repeated prodding to locate the sacs may also cause bruising. For a thorough expression, it is best left to your veterinarian as they can express from within.
My dog got skunked! What do I do?
Dogs can be very curious. This sometimes can get them into a stink of trouble. If your dog encounters a skunk it is likely to get sprayed if it insists on checking out this newly found creature. When a skunk is startled it will make a peculiar purring sound, sometimes growling. Before emitting its sulphuric spray (mercaptan) in self-defense, it will warn its target by raising its tail, standing on its hind legs and stomping its front feet. The mercaptan it sprays not only carries a terrible odor but, if it hits the eyes, will blind the skunk’s target for up to two days. Your dog may come home with more than it had bargained for when it encountered the four legged, striped little fellow. The skunk’s spray is not only extremely foul smelling, but it is very hard to get out of a dogs fur. Your dog may smell for quite some time if you do not act quickly. A fresh spray smells so bad it burns your nose. The closest comparison I can think of is the smell of burning rubber or plastic. If you or your pet gets sprayed it is important to work quickly to get the skunk oil out and neutralized. If you do not act quickly the smell can last up to 2 years!
Tips: Before grooming appointment for your “Skunked” Dog
- DO NOT WASH DOG! Do not let him get wet; this will just make things worse. When the skin becomes wet the skin’s
pores open up now allowing the skunk oil to seep in.
- Before handling your dog, you may want to put on some old clothes. Skunk spray is actually oil and is very difficult to
remove from clothing. Do not let your dog lay in his dog bed or the skunk oils will get on the bed.
- If possible, leave the dog outside to prevent the odor ridden oils from getting into your house.
- You can use paper towels to soak up the oils from the coat before grooming appointment. If you use a real towel you
will most likely have to toss it. Be careful not to spread the oils from one part of the dog to another. Only wipe where
the oils are already to avoid making the problem worse.
*Please note that we use in house specialized formula on dry coats, let set for about 10 minutes and shampoo off, this process will strip the skin and coat of oils and *may lighten the color. Then we heavily coat the body in Silk conditioner to re hydrate skin & coat, leaving a beautiful dog.
It is completely unnatural for any pet to be free-fed and is a quick and easy way for your pet to become obese. It becomes physically impossible for some cats to even clean themselves when they are obese.
You would never think of eating a 3 or 4 day-old steak that has been left out, so why are you making your dog or cat to eat it? Animals will instinctively eat as much as they can today, because they don’t know what tomorrow will bring. It may take a couple of days to reform your pet’s routine, but rest assured they will adapt to the new routine.
Simply measure out each feeding according to the breed and activity level (Not what the bag of food tells you!). Your veterinarian can advise you on your pet’s proper daily caloric intake.
Allow your pet 10-15 minutes to eat without any distractions.
MOST IMPORTAINT! Remove your pet’s bowl after 20 minutes regardless if the bowl is still full.
Your pet will quickly learn they only have a certain amount of time before their bowl gets taken away and have to wait until next meal time.
You have tried the rest, now try the best! We realize “diet” food can be extremely expensive. Generally, all the manufacturer has done is produced food that is mostly air so that it fools the stomach into thinking it’s full. In our experience, we have found a high protein, low fat diet works best along with daily exercise. Replacing dog biscuits with carrots can also help tremendously!
NO TABLE FOOD!
You may be loving your pet to death-LITERALLY!
You don’t miss filet minion until you have tasted it.
A good rule of thumb is anything that you find delicious is probably not good for our pets. Their body can’t process certain condiments and fatty foods. In some cases these foods can lead to irreversible medical conditions such as thyroid problems, pancreatitis and diabetes. If you love your pet and want to keep them around a long time, please NO PEOPLE FOOD!
We never want you to leave our facility without being 100% satisfied. We will not be offended if you would like us to modify areas or touch-up their haircut. Just like us, each pet is different. They may react differently to shampoos and other grooming conditions. So it is important to let us know what works and what we can do to make things right. Please contact us within 24-48 hours of your grooming service to give us the opportunity to satisfy you. Not each pet gets groomed in a “show clip”, so if it helps, take photographs or ask the groomer to make notes of cuts and styles you prefer from their last grooming session.
Any other questions?
We want to answer them all!
Just drop us an email at firstname.lastname@example.org or contact us by phone at (916) 390-3818
We will help you in any way we can with questions, concerns, or evaluations.